Hut to hut in the Dolomites

The Dolomites are made for walking from hut to hut. A network of rifugi — staffed mountain refuges with beds, hot meals and often a decent wine list — means you can cross a mountain range carrying little more than you would for a day hike.

The route

The Alta Via 1 runs about 120 km from Lago di Braies to Belluno. Most people walk it in eight to ten days, but the northern half, from Braies to Passo Giau, makes a superb five-day trip with the most dramatic scenery.

• Day 1: Lago di Braies → Rifugio Biella (about 4 hours)
• Day 2: Biella → Rifugio Lagazuoi (about 7 hours, with the option of walking through First World War tunnels)
• Day 3: Lagazuoi → Rifugio Averau (about 4 hours)
• Day 4: Averau → Rifugio Città di Fiume (about 5 hours)
• Day 5: Descend to the valley and catch the bus back

What the huts are like

Expect dormitories or small shared rooms, a hot shower (sometimes for a few coins), and a three-course dinner at a fixed time. Mezza pensione — half board, with dinner, bed and breakfast — typically costs between 60 and 90 euros. Bring a silk or cotton liner; blankets are provided.

When to go

The huts open from late June to late September. Early July can still have snow on the high passes; September brings clear skies, fewer people and cold mornings.